9 Tools to Level Up Your Bread Baking Game | Reviews by Wirecutter
By Ben Keough
Ben Keough is an editor covering cameras, working from home, powering, and hobbies. He also writes about coffee, beer, and food for Wirecutter.
After further testing, the Sourhouse Starter Jar is my new favorite way to keep my sourdough starter, and I cover my dough with Wild Clementine Co.’s reusable dish covers during bulk fermentation.
One of the best things about baking bread is that it requires very little equipment. Thousands of years of history have shown that you really just need hands, a bowl in which to proof the dough, and a place to bake it. But even so, a few well-chosen pieces of gear can make things simpler, more efficient, and more repeatable.
If you’ve been baking for a while and are looking for ways to improve your process—or even if you’re a newbie who’s simply looking for the best kit to start with—here are a few tools that can help you make better bread more consistently. Many of these aren’t cheap, but, hey, hobbies aren’t about saving money, are they?
If you bake in a deep-walled vessel like a Dutch oven, the BreadMat is the best way to get scored bread into it without creating a doughy disaster.
Many sourdough bakers bake their first loaves in a Dutch oven. These vessels are effective and often already part of the kitchen arsenal. But a Dutch oven’s high sides make it difficult to transfer dough in without burning yourself on preheated steel or messing up your carefully executed scoring (more on that below).
Parchment paper can make a decent sling, but the Rosehill Sourdough BreadMat is a cheap, endlessly reusable solution that I vastly prefer. The 9-inch round mat is equipped with long ears on either side, making it easy to lower your loaf into a Dutch oven and pull it out post-bake without endangering your fingers. The silicone stays cool to the touch, even when it’s just come out of a 500 degree Fahrenheit oven, but it doesn’t interfere with the loaf’s browning or oven spring.
The BreadMat comes in a variety of designs—including versions with longer handles and one made specifically for the Challenger Bread Pan—but most people will be perfectly fine with the original.
Elegantly carved from black walnut, this lame provides fine control over slashes and can produce surprisingly delicate detail work.
Scoring bread—slashing your loaf with a blade so it rises in a predictable way as it bakes—is an underappreciated art. It can be done with a straight razor or a kitchen knife, but if you use the right tool, you’ll have better control, which makes the task a lot easier and more repeatable. A good lame can be the difference between a loaf that looks like a volcanic eruption and one with a beautiful ear.
I’ve tested a lot of lames (pronounced lahm, from the French for blade), and my favorites come from Wire Monkey, which claims to have invented the now-iconic UFO lame. Wire Monkey offers a wide range of lames, but my go-to is indubitably the Goose, which places the blade at the end of a long, curved, elegantly carved wooden stick.
Like all of the company’s lames, this one is carved from beautiful hardwood (black walnut, in this case), which makes it feel like an heirloom you’ll cherish for years to come. Wire Monkey sells a care kit to help you keep your lame in good shape. But the same basic wood-care principles we recommend for cutting boards apply here, as well.
The Goose comes with a slide-on magnetic blade cover made of the same wood. It also includes a five-pack of Astra blades to get you started (though any standard double-edged razor blade will work fine).
Thinner and lighter than many baking steels, this one preheats quickly and still delivers enough heat to create a crackly crust.
If you want to bake more than just boules, you’ll eventually need to move beyond a Dutch oven. A baking stone or steel is a much more flexible solution, since its much larger area is amenable to everything from batards to baguettes.
Kitchen specialist Brød & Taylor’s Bread Steel is a particularly thin and light take on a baking steel. At just 0.1 inches thick and 5.6 pounds, it’s a lot more maneuverable in your oven than the ⅜-inch-thick, 22-pound Modernist Cuisine Baking Steel we recommend in our guide to pizza stones and baking steels. It’s also easier to store in a cabinet, if you prefer to take it out of the oven between bakes.
If you’re used to thicker steels, you might be worried that thin steel won’t transfer enough heat. (I know I was.) But in practice, it works perfectly well: After a 30-minute preheat, it can create a beautifully blistered, crispy crust. The Modernist Cuisine steel takes a full hour to preheat to the point where it would create the same crust, as does my cast-iron Dutch oven.
This aluminum cloche pairs perfectly with Brød & Taylor’s bread steel, trapping steam to create a crackly, golden crust. It can also be used with any other stone or steel.
Steam is an essential part of the bread-baking process; it promotes a good rise by keeping dough pliable, and it produces beautiful blisters on the crust. A Dutch oven traps steam by default, since it comes with a lid you can leave on at the start of the bake and remove later for browning. But if you use a stone or steel, you need to find a way to ensure your bread doesn’t dry out prematurely. That’s where a cloche comes in.
Cloches are traditionally made from ceramic, which works great. But a more durable, lightweight alternative is the aluminum Brød & Taylor Baking Shell. Like the company’s bread steel, this cloche is designed to be ultralight (1 pound 2 ounces), and it has a convenient knob on the front so you don’t have to struggle to remove it from the oven mid-bake. Its dimensions (12½ by 8 by 5½ inches) make it especially suitable for batards and demi-baguettes, but it could work for smaller boules as well.
Despite its lighter weight, the Brød & Taylor shell is just as effective at trapping steam and transmitting heat as a Dutch oven. Each time, my batard comes out beautifully blistered and crispy. And as it cools on my kitchen counter, I can hear the crust continue to crackle from several rooms away.
These jars are easy to clean, and they have clear volume markings to help you track the progress of your starter’s rise.
A sourdough starter can live happily in basically any vessel, but not all jars are ideally suited to repeated filling, fermentation, and emptying.
For a long time, I used wide-mouth, straight-sided Mason jars, gently screwing them closed to let fermentation gasses escape but keep everything else out. They worked fine. I also briefly used the Insta-famous Weck jars, which are basically an easier-to-clean take on Ball jars. And then I got Challenger Breadware’s Starter Jars, which are a huge improvement but have their own flaw (namely, a bamboo lid with a silicone gasket that collects dried starter crud).
Recently, I’ve been converted to using Sourhouse’s starter jars. They’re much like Challenger’s—straight-sided, untextured glass cylinders (available in pint or quart sizes)—but where Challenger uses a lid that slips inside the top edge of the jar, Sourhouse uses a friction-fit silicone cap that slips around the outside of the jar. That makes them much easier to clean. Like the Challenger jars, the Sourhouse ones also have helpful volume markings, which allow you to keep track of how much the starter has risen since you fed it.
These reusable covers are made of food-safe, machine-washable material, and they come in a wide variety of fun, colorful patterns. They cost more than dollar-store shower caps, but they’ll last much longer.
If you like to bulk ferment in a large mixing bowl, as I do, you’ve probably run into the issue of finding a good cap for your bowl—a necessity for keeping moisture in your dough. The go-to recommendation on Reddit and other baking forums is to use a shower cap, and on the surface it makes good sense: They’re cheap, stretchy, and waterproof.
But shower caps are also not designed to be food-safe, and in my experience they don’t last very long before they start to crack and tear. Enter Wild Clementine Co.’s reusable dish covers. These colorful, cute covers are made of 100% cotton with a BPA-free PUL lining, and they offer lots of stretch to create a good seal around your bowl. They can even be machine-washed to get rid of stuck-on bits of dried dough (though being completely honest, I’ve never needed to).
The covers come in a huge range of patterns and sizes, for bowls of different diameters, so there’s almost certainly going to be one that’ll fit your tastes and fermentation vessel. And they’re handmade by a small-business owner in the US, so you can feel good about your slightly splurge-y purchase.
This proofer will keep your dough at the perfect temperature for bulk fermentation, and it collapses nearly flat for storage. It also comes with a handy carrying case.
If you live in a temperate climate—or have central HVAC—fermenting bread usually isn’t much of a challenge. You can just plop your bowl on the counter and wait. But if you live somewhere very cold or dry, you’ll need a way to keep the dough in the right zone while the yeast does its work.
There are plenty of products out there that can do this, but for this piece, I tested out the Brød & Taylor Folding Proofer and Slow Cooker.
The Folding Proofer is what it says it is: a collapsible box with a built-in heating element that can maintain a steady temperature between 70 and 195 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity level between 60 and 80%, thanks to a built-in water tray. (It doesn’t have the ability to cool, though, so if your ambient temperature is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, that’s your floor.) In addition to bread, it can be used to make yogurt, and it even works as a slow cooker—just put a pot of stew in there, and cook it low and slow for as long as you like.
In my testing, the Folding Proofer reliably kept a steady temperature, and it did make proofing times more predictable. I appreciate how compact it becomes when fully collapsed, which allows me to slide it into a cabinet vertically, alongside my cookie sheets.
For my sourdough starter, I also tested the Sourdough Home, which you may have seen Instagram breadfluencers championing. Essentially a repurposed makeup fridge, it’s able to heat and cool, to keep your starter in the perfect window and help you control how long it takes to become perfectly ripe for baking. But while I can confirm that it does exactly that, the process is still more fussy than I personally want to deal with. (I’m not someone who’s prepared to feed their starter every day or even every few days.) It’s also yet another thing that’ll take up space on your kitchen counter.
For years, I’ve simply kept my starter in the fridge, and over time it’s become powerful enough that it can go up to a month between feedings and bounce back in a couple of days to make beautiful bread. Is it living its best possible life? Probably not: More regular feedings would most likely produce more consistent fermentation results. Would the Sourdough Home help it get there? Indubitably. Do I think it’s something most bakers need? Definitely not. But if you get joy from fine-tuning every aspect of the fermentation process, give it a look.
These containers are designed for restaurant kitchens, so they’re super-sturdy, and they come in sizes ranging from 2 quarts to 22 quarts. The 18-quart option is perfect for holding 25 pounds of flour.
Cambro containers are similar to our Rubbermaid pick. And these containers are similarly made to last and come in a ton of sizes.
If you bake a lot, like I do—say, five to six sourdough loaves a month, plus pizza dough, cookies, and other baked goods—you’d be smart to buy flour by the sack. I get my bread flour from Costco, where a 25-pound bag of Ardent Mills flour costs less than $10.
But once you have that glorious pile of gluten, where to store it? Like any food product, flour is sensitive to moisture and oxidation, so keeping it tightly sealed is preferable to simply rolling the bag up after you scoop out what you need. I work through a sack of bread flour in about three months, and a good container has no trouble keeping it fresh during that time.
Personally, I like to use Cambro containers, just because my wife has a bunch from her time in professional kitchens. They have flexible, plastic lids that form a tight seal, and their flat bottoms stack well.
In our guide to dry food storage containers, we recommend Rubbermaid’s commercial containers, which are similar. They beat out Cambro containers in our tests because their lids fit more tightly (that means they also require a little more hand strength to open and close). And, unlike the Cambros, the Rubbermaid containers’ smallest sizes have handles. And they share the same footprint as the larger sizes, so they’re more easily stackable (and nest-able when not in use).
Regardless of which brand you go with, these containers come in a wide variety of sizes and round and square formats. I have containers as small as 1 quart and as large as 22 quarts.
An 18-quart square Cambro container (with lid) and a Rubbermaid container (also with lid) will both hold 25 pounds of flour just about perfectly. And both companies also make trash-can-sized ingredients bins on wheels (Cambro, Rubbermaid), if you prefer to go that route.
This article was edited by Marilyn Ong and Marguerite Preston.
Ben Keough
Ben Keough is the supervising editor for Wirecutter's working from home, powering, cameras, and hobbies and games coverage. He previously spent more than a decade writing about cameras, printers, and other office equipment for Wirecutter, Reviewed, USA Today, and Digital Camera HQ. After four years testing printers, he definitively confirmed that they all suck, but some suck less than others.
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